Kafeneion O Ermis
This centuries-old landmark on the main thoroughfare between the old and new harbors dates back to Ottoman times, and is perhaps the best place in town to sip ouzo—you'll be sat beneath a vine-shaded terrace at a wizened set of table and chairs with plenty of old-world relics to eye over while you wait. A long list of mouth-watering and excellent value mezedes are on the menu, such as soutzoukakia, octopus in wine sauce, long-cooked chickpeas, baked aubergines, and homemade sausages, plus traditional desserts including halva.