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Salzburg has some of the best—and most expensive—restaurants in Austria, so if you happen to walk into one of the Altstadt posh establishments without a reservation, you may get a sneer worthy of Captain von Trapp. Happily, the city is plentifully supplied with pleasant eateries, offering not only good, solid Austrian food (not for anyone on a diet), but also exceptional Italian dishes and neue Küche (nouvelle cuisine) delights. There are certain dining experiences that are quintessentially Salzburgian, including restaurants perched on the town's peaks that offer "food with a view" or rustic inns that offer "Alpine evenings" with entertainment. Some of the most distinctive places in town are the fabled hotel restaurants, such as those of the Goldener Hirsch or the "S’Nockerl," the cellar of the Hotel Elefant.
For fast food, Salzburgers love their broiled-sausages street stands. Some say the most delicious fare is found at the Balkan Grill at Getreidegasse 33 (its recipe for spicy Bosna sausage has always been a secret). For a quick lunch on weekdays, visit the market in front of the Kollegienkirche—a lot of stands offer a large variety of boiled sausages for any taste, ranging from mild to spiced.
In the more expensive restaurants the set menus give you an opportunity to sample the chef's best; in less expensive ones they help keep costs down. Note, however, that some restaurants limit the hours during which the set menu is available. Many restaurants are open all day; otherwise, lunch is served from approximately 11 to 2 and dinner from 6 to 10. In more expensive restaurants it's always best to make a reservation. At festival time most restaurants are open seven days a week, and have generally more flexible late dining hours.
With white-linen tablecloths, candles, flowers, and windows opening onto the street, this is one of Salzburg's most pleasant restaurants. Menu selections consist of local fish, mouthwatering steaks, traditional Austrian dishes, and game in season. The cellar is called the Freysauff but don't be misled; it may mean "free drinks," but you definitely need to pay.
See and be seen among the Salzburg Festival glitteratti in Triangel's large outdoor seating area, or cozy up in the intimate dining room of this organic-farming-focused Austrian restaurant. The endless pounding coming from the kitchen tells you that the Wiener schnitzel is a popular choice, but if you have to pick one dish, make it Oma's Schweinsbraten; owner Franzi's grandmother's roast pork belly recipe.
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