SusanP

When you travel, there will be bumps along the road. My normal reaction to these bumps is to deal with them and move on. However, this is difficult when they keep happening throughout the trip! Last week, I returned from a trip to Dresden (4 nights) and the Czech Republic (2 nights Karlovy Vary, 3 nights Cesky Krumlov, 5 nights Prague). I flew out of Albany, NY, even though lots of times it requires 2 layovers, because it’s close to my house, 1-1/4 hour, and I like having a short drive on the way home when you’re tired from a long day of getting up early (sometimes in the middle of the night) and a long flight. It’s 3-1/2 hours to Newark and 4 to 4-1/2 hours to JFK (I’ve had it take 5 hours a couple of times due to traffic).

Ironically, the connection I was a bit concerned about was the 1-hour connection in Washington. When I mentioned it to the clerk when I checked in, she assured me that the legal time for that connection was 30 minutes, so with an hour, I would have no problem. Surprisingly, she was right, there was no problem.

The trouble started when we were on board in Washington waiting to take off. The pilot announced that there would be a delay. Not so unusual. After a while, he announced that we had to change runways. Hmmm, never heard of that happening. Of course, that takes time, and when we’re on the new runway, he again announces that there will be a delay. OK, again, not so unusual. We wait quite a while, and then he announces that we have waited so long that we have to return to the gate to have the fuel topped off. Now this I’ve definitely never heard of! Also that it’s been so long that, according to FFA rules, they have to let people off the plane if they so desire, taking all their belongings with them. I don’t know if anyone did, nobody in my area did.

When we finally take off, it’s well over 1-1/2 hour late, so I wonder if I’ll make my connection in Frankfurt. I don’t. I get to the gate 20 minutes before takeoff, but it’s one of those cases where the plane is way out somewhere on the tarmac and they bus you out to it, and the bus had already left. It’s now 9:00 a.m., and the guy at the gate informs me that the next flight is at 10:00 p.m. and I should take the train instead (there is a train stop in the airport). I go through a frustrating time of uninformed people who sounded like they knew what they were talking about giving me incorrect information/directions, a VERY long way to walk, a guy with one of those carts that drives people around who refuses to take me to that part of the airport to get to the United desk because it’s too far (I know it’s far, that’s why I need a ride!), etc.

When I get down to the level where I think I need to go to for the train, it’s quite unclear which way to go to pick up my luggage, which fortunately the guy at the United desk did arrange to have delivered to the drop-off for train luggage. By this, time I’ve had it! There is an information desk, so I explain my problem, and this is where the Kindness of Strangers comes in. He took one look at me and I think felt sorry for me. He leaves his desk and takes my carryon from me and walks me to the train luggage drop-off. This is not a short walk. If it hadn’t been for him, I might still be wandering around the Frankfurt Airport! He points out the building where I need to buy the train ticket (different from what I had been told by one of those supposedly well-informed people). I wait nearly an hour and had just about given up hope when my luggage is delivered. Amazing! I didn’t think I’d see It again. I go to buy the train ticket, the train is leaving in 10 minutes, but I can see the elevator that takes you down to the platform, and it’s very close. Finally on the train! The ride is 4-½ hours.

When I get to Dresden, the Kindness of Strangers kicks in again. A few minutes before we’re supposed to get there, I move the end of the car, because I know they don’t stop for long. A young man is also waiting for the stop. He looks at me, then down at my luggage (I have my carryon sitting on top of my small suitcase), then back up. He’s speaking German, but I can tell that he is asking if I’d like help with my luggage. I nod yes, and when the train stops, he picks up my luggage as if it were light as a feather and places it down on the platform. So nice! I would note that this happens a lot, very nice people helping with luggage on and off trains without my ever asking for help. (I do have luggage that I can handle on and off trains.)

Sorry, I feel like I’ve already written a whole trip report, and I’m not even to my destination yet!

I finally get to the hotel, Ibis Budget Dresden City, around 4:30. It’s a great location to see the main sites in Dresden and has an elevator, my main requirement. I’m not handicapped, and since my knee replacement, I can do stairs OK, but there is so much walking and so many stairs when you go to Europe, I don’t want to add more on at the hotel. I know I should stay up, but I’m totally exhausted by this time and really have to lie down. Of course, I fall asleep for a while. I have restaurant recommendations from Ingo for places not far from the hotel that serve good local food and later go to Freiberger Schankhouse, Neumarket Square 8. I order the ½ Pork Knuckle with Cabbage Salad & Bread. This seems like a meal crying out for beer, so I have Kellerbier. The pork is very good and very filling! I don’t manage any of the bread and don’t quite finish the pork.

The next day, I’m still so tired and not feeling great, but I have a timed ticket (necessary) for the Historical Green Vault at the Royal Palace. Pictures of this are what originally made me interested in Dresden, so I’m definitely not missing it! This is an additional ticket to the one for the palace. Lots of amazing things to see. There is also the New Green Vault (included in the ticket for the palace) that also has lots of amazing things. Keep track of your ticket. At each of these vaults, plus at the entrance to other parts of the palace, you have to have the ticket for them to scan. Each time, they are surprised that I am by myself. This was all bombed during WWII. Incredible what they have restored/rebuilt.

You come out of the palace at a different place, and close by is Alex Dresden, so I stop there for some lunch. The Crispy Chicken Schnitzel with Fries is delicious. It’s so nice, warm & sunny & blue sky, that after I finish, I order a glass of wine and just enjoy the scene, plus there is a guy singing old Beatles and Simon & Garfunkel songs. I’m too tired to visit another site, so this is nice instead. I notice that across the street is a Lindor shop. I love their chocolates and figure they might have some flavors that aren’t available in the US, so I go there when I leave Alex, and they do have flavors I’ve never seen, so I have to get some.

Later, even though I have more recommendations from Ingo and they are not very far from the hotel, I’m really tired and there are a bunch of restaurants across the street from the hotel. I really like the idea of just walking across the street for dinner, so I go to Twenty Two. It’s not until I look at the menu that I realize it’s an Italian restaurant. Of course, Italy is my favorite place, so I’m not too upset. I order the Original Truffled Carbonara. OMG, it’s to die for. I eat every bite and want to lick the plate. I tell the waiter to please tell the chef that I have been to Italy many times, and this dish was as good as any I’ve had in Italy! (He later came back to say thank you from the chef.) Surprisingly, I seem to have room for dessert and have the 22 Brownie with Caramel Sauce, very good. I decide I’m coming back here. I certainly have to have that Truffled Carbonara again!

Next day, I’m really not feeling well, still recovering from the trip over I guess, so after breakfast, I go back up to the room and sleep some more. I know this is not helping me get on the local time, but so be it. I sleep a lot longer than I thought I would, and when I wake up, it’s raining. My plan for today was to explore the Bohemian Quarter. Mostly an outdoor excursion, so not much fun in the rain. I couldn’t switch days, because I already had a ticket for a tour of the Semperoper (Opera) the next day. Of course, I had other things I could do, but I still feel pretty lousy, so more rest is in order. For dinner, I go back to Twenty Two and try the Modern Burrata Fettuccini with Pesto. Delicious, but not as good as the Carbonara.

The next day, I start out at the Zwinger, but just looking at the immense size makes me realize that there is no way I’m going through all that. Turns out that you can go in around the courtyard (which is under construction and looks to be a long way from ever being finished) and see the outside from the path around the courtyard. I’m OK with this. After that, on the way over to the Semperoper, I stop at lunch at Bistro Am Herzogin Garten. The Pelmeni (a meat-stuffed pasta, butter on the bottom, sour cream and chives on top) is delicious.

As mentioned, I have a ticket for a tour of the Semperoper. It’s beautiful, of course. Not for the handicapped, as there are lots of stairs. Another example of amazing rebuild after bombing in WWII.

Back to Twenty Two for dinner and another order of the Truffled Carbonara. Yum!

I feel like I might actually get a good night’s sleep tonight. Ha! Another fiasco. At around 4:00 a.m., there is a screeching fire alarm going off. Had to go out into the hall to hear the announcement, which was that this was an emergency, leave the building immediately via the closest exit. So walk down four flights of stairs and out into the street. The fire trucks arrived and they went inside. Fortunately, whatever the problem was, it was dealt with quickly, as they were only in there about 10-15 minutes. Even more fortunately, we were able to use the elevator to get back to our rooms! Of course, the next morning was when I needed to get up early to catch a train.

More later...

KayF

I'm really enjoying this, thanks for sharing. I know nothing about Dresden but from the places you visited, it sounds interesting. Will have to do some reading up on it. One question, do you ever feel uncomfortable eating at a restaurant on your own? It's something I'm going to have to get used to but find daunting.

Travel_Nerd

Oh SusanP i'm feeling for your first few days thus far! But enjoying your trip report despite its early hiccups.

KayF I know I'm not Susan but I do travel and dine alone as a single woman. It is daunting at first but you get used to it. Try it at home first, at a bar or pub if you can. And slowly start taking yourself on "dates.' I now regularly go to pro basketball games solo as well as fhe films and concerts/live music. For a meal, I might bring a book (not always practical while traveling) and will read it if I feel a bit self conscious (rarity anymore). And I realized I've never given other solo diners/travelers a second thought, and there is no reason for anyone to do it about me, either. Good luck!

bilboburgler

on for the ride

SusanP

marystream, of course it's worth it. This trip was just quite a bit more challenging than most!

KayF, I don't feel uncomfortable eating alone. That lasted a few minutes during my first dinner on my first solo trip 18 years ago. I don't suggest taking a book, because it's more fun to take in your surroundings. Also, I find that when you are alone, people are much more likely to talk you, including at meals. I often end up in conversation with the people at the next table, something initiated by them because they're surprised to find me travelling alone.

I would add that despite not seeing everything I had planned and feeling lousy, I did like Dresden. It has a good vibe!

Trophywife007

You've had quite an interesting start to your trip but you handled it very well in spite of the obstacles. Good for you! I loved our trip to Dresden in spite of being pretty ill during the time; it's a great city, and I'm looking forward to further installments.

Ingo

SusanP, thank you very much for this report. I am on board! I am so glad you liked Dresden despite the bad start of the trip that you had and not feeling well (frankly, when I came back to Germany from the U.S. I was so jet-lagged I could have slept a whole week and felt terrible.) That Italian restaurant is a great find! I'll try those Truffled Carbonara soon

Keep it coming!

halfapair

Great report. Love that you are intrepid enough to keep going when things are going wrong. The Kindness of Strangers does make all the difference.

gomiki

Susan, tough start for a trip. We had a Kindness of Strangers trip from Paris to CDG once. It was movie material. I loved Dresden. Looking forward to more.

(Hi, Ingo!)

travelchat

Traveling solo for more than 20 years I have experienced the kindness of strangers many times in Maastricht, Vienna, Paris, just to name a few. Dining alone never bothered me. Plus, it’s great for people watching and striking up conversation with those close by.

Jet lag recovery when traveling solo does have its challenges. I find that whenever I have a companion along that helps greatly to distract and focus on getting past it.

I’m enjoying your TR so far and following along!

Ingo

(Hi Miki!)

Anxiously waiting for more here ... ;-)

Adelaidean

The kindness of strangers is always so welcome, isn’t it. We have had many of those moments.

You reminded me of a trip about 10 years ago, based in Chemnitz (with a friend of my mother). Our host seemed determined we see it all, so we had some whirlwind days through the city (the opera house, Frauenkirche, museums, Green Vault, Zwinger, etc), the nearby palaces Pillnitz?Moritzburg?, Meissen (fabulous!, and the porcelain museum so interesting), Koenigstein, the Bastei, then handed over to family who seemed to think that pace needed to continue with Karlovy Vary and the Erzegebirge.
It’s really a fascinating region, with great beauty and history. And I learnt it warranted more time than we had allocated, lol.

mokka4

Following along as another intrepid solo traveler.
As I get older, I get frustrated by new physical limitations (glasses, knee pain, etc)!
Sometimes the pull of travel is just too big!

SusanP

Thanks, all. Ingo, I appreciate the restaurant recommendations you gave me. I'm afraid convenience won out! Sorry it took me so long to get back. Here is some more:

I realize that I never said anything about the hotel except about the great location. Ibis Budget Dresden City, Wilsdruffer Str 25, is close to the main sites. Decent buffet breakfast, nothing unusual. The room was small but fine. The shower stall (with frosted glass) and sink aren’t in a separate room, there is a partial wall between them and the rest of the room. Toilet is enclosed. The room has a bunkbed that goes across the head of the bed in the opposite direction. Be careful, even as short as I am, I bumped my head. Fortunately, my hair covered the ensuing bruise! A very good option. Less than $100 per night including breakfast.

The next morning, I’m off to the Czech Republic, taking the train to Karlovy Vary. The day before, I had asked the hotel to arrange a taxi, and she had showed me where he would pick me up across the street. The driver was right on time. This seemed like a good omen.

When I booked the train ticket, it had said I needed to change trains in Prague. It’s a good thing I looked more closely at the ticket, because the change was actually at the Usti nad Labem Station, which is the one before the actual Prague station. I assume it’s on the outskirts of Prague. It’s a small station, I have time to go to the restroom, need Track 2, so I follow the signs upstairs. Hmmm, it takes me to Tracks 3 & 5. I go back downstairs and ask about this, but the guy I talks to points back upstairs. OK, back up, there is a train there waiting. It takes me a minute to realize that it’s the one I need. The doors are shut, but then I notice the button to open the door is green, so I’m able to get on. Success! Not much time to spare.

When I get to Karlovy Vary, it’s my first stop in the Czech Republic, and I don’t have any Czech Koruna. Just in case anyone is wondering, there is no ATM at the Karlovy Vary Train Station. There are a couple of taxis there, but the driver only accepts cash (I’m not surprised by this.) I try to explain that there is no place for me to get the CZK. He doesn’t speak much English, but I realize he is telling me that he will stop at an ATM on the way to the hotel, so that’s what we do. Great!

I’m staying at Hotel Renesance Krasna Kralovna, Sara Louka 48. It seemed like a good location, and it was, except for one not-so-small thing…the taxi driver stops and lets me know that it’s as far as he can go because the hotel is in a pedestrian-only section. He assures me that it’s as close as he can get. I’m not too happy with having to walk up a long ramp, across a pedestrian bridge, and down another long ramp, plus another long block with my luggage, but there’s really no choice. (I think the hotel should make this clear on their website.) Another instance of the Kindness of Strangers helps a bit. Instead of the long ramp down once you’re across the water, there are maybe a half-dozen steps you can take instead. I paused there and a nice man at the bottom of the steps immediately came up and moved my luggage down, once again without my asking. Again, so nice!

While that was annoying, the fiasco comes when I check in. Their elevator is out of order. Oh no! As I mentioned, I really want an elevator. This is due partially to my age and partially to my state of fitness…or lack thereof! They only have two single rooms, one on the second floor, one on the third. She does give me the one on the second floor, but that’s still 41 steps. This is not good, but guess I’ll deal with it. I’ll just take my time. She does assure me that they’ll take my luggage up, so that was good. Other than this, I like the hotel, with its old-world décor. My single room is small but very pretty. Lovely molding on the ceiling surrounding a chandelier. Another decent buffet breakfast. A good value (except for the broken elevator) at only $40 per night including breakfast.

There is a row of restaurants across from the hotel and I need lunch, so I go to Goethe’s Beer House. The Camembert with Czech Spices is good (I wouldn’t say wonderful). The best part was the Garlic Potato Chips served with a Horseradish Sauce. Fantastic! Still warm from the fryer and so good. I think this might be a dish to share, it’s a lot of chips and I can’t finish all of them.

I know most people seem to go to Karlovy Vary as a day trip, but I don’t do well with day trips. I’ll get to a city, find I’m enjoying it, and don’t get around to doing day trips, even if I have all the information to do so. Also, as you can probably tell by now, I move more slowly than most and like to have enough time. I can actually see how Karlovy Vary could be done in a day but am not sorry that I stayed a couple of nights.

I have Rick Steves’ Prague & the Czech Republic book. One thing I like about his books is that he gives very good “paths” through major museums and sites if you want to hit the highlights. He does this very well for the town of Karlovy Vary. I have added this path to my notes, which is a good thing, because I neglected to print out a map and the hotel didn’t have any. I could get one at the Tourist Information Office but don’t find that until the next day on my way back to the hotel. I do fine just following Rick’s instructions.

That first afternoon, I head up to the Grandhotel Pupp. Queen Latifah’s movie “Last Holiday” where she goes off to this hotel to blow her life savings after being told she has three weeks to live made me want to go here. I go in to look around, especially to see that room in the movie with the gorgeous ceiling where she checks in. It’s not the check-in area any more (or maybe it never was and they just used it for that in the movie). It really is beautiful.

After that, I go out to find the top of Marianska Lane to find the funicular that takes you up to the elevator to reach Diana Tower. I never find it, and there is absolutely nobody around to ask. Oh well, I just do a little window shopping. If you want high-end stores and boutiques, this is the place for you! Nothing in my budget, but fun to look. I went past the hotel and further down, thinking I’d find the Tourist Office, but no luck. For some reason, I thought the whole town would be on a steep hill. This is not the case. While there were narrow, very hilly streets on the way from the train station, the central pedestrian area is rather flat except for one short part that is slightly downhill. Back to the hotel to put my feet up for a little while.

That night for dinner, I figure I’ll go to one of the restaurants right across from the hotel. It’s just after 8:00 pm. The street is practically empty, and two of the restaurants are closed. The third has a couple people there, so I sit down there. The waiter comes over and says the kitchen is closed. Well, I don’t want to walk a long way further down the street without knowing if there is anything there, so I go to the only restaurant that is open, just a little bit down from the hotel. This is how I ended up in another Italian restaurant! Once again, it turns out very well. At Ristorante Capri, the Salmon Carpaccio and then the Mussels are delicious.

More later.

travelchat

Slow travel, my MO! Lucky that you caught that train in the nick of time. I admire your bravado traveling solo at an age when every movement is a challenge. Another terrific episode. Keep ‘‘em coming!

SusanP

Thanks, travelchat. I have to keep going as long as I can. The alternative, staying home, is something I don't want to think about!

Ingo

Thanks for posting the next chapter, Susan! I actually like your slow pace. I also rather stay in a city and explore in depth to get a feel for it, the atmosphere, than rushing through on a day trip. Although I must admit I never stayed overnight in Karlovy Vary, only did day trips (but I don't live that far away.)

Btw, Usti nad Labem is much closer to the German border than to Prague. I was there last week, btw, just shopping and dining. A city with a pop. of 100,000 and definitely not a suburb of Prague ;-)

Very glad you enjoyed the trip despite the bumps in the road like no elevator, taxi dropping you off far from the hotel and such ...

SusanP

Thanks, Ingo. That's interesting about Usti nad Labem. I will be gone all afternoon but will try to do some more later or tomorrow. More fiascos to come! 😁 But good stuff, too.

SusanP

Can't sleep, so here's some more:
The next morning, I’m off to check out all the spas. Shortly after leaving the hotel, I can see the glass pyramid rising above everything with steam coming out the top. This is the first one I visit, the Hot Spring Colonnade. The geyser shoots 20 feet high. I buy a spa cup to try the water. I had read that it wasn’t a good idea to drink a lot of the water if your system isn’t used to it, so I just take a couple sips. It doesn’t taste as bad as I had expected.

Next is the Market Colonnade with four more springs. It’s a long white building with frilly architecture. Neat! Then the Castle Spa. I’m looking for the Tourist Information but don’t see it, although I have to admit that I’m looking down to watch my step in between looking at everything.

Next is the Mill Colonnade with six more springs and then the Lazne III (Spa #3) with a Neo-Moorish façade. You could drink from each one if you like.

In the lower area of town is the Grand Hotel adjoining Dvorak Gardens. Here is the wooden Orchard Colonnade (Sadova Kolonada). Beautiful! It’s sort of a couple gazebos with a long covered walkway in between, all open to the outside. Then at the side of the Smetana Gardens (Smetanovy Sada) is the Elizabeth Spa, Spa #5 (Lazne V). This had impressive high rock walls and a long walk up a steep walkway, which of course I didn’t do. I just sat in the garden and observed!

I enjoyed seeing all this and Karlovy Vary also has a good vibe. This is something that I really like to find. It’s just how the town feels. I also like the fact that there are frequent benches if you want to just sit and enjoy that vibe. On the way back, I enjoy sitting on one of those benches by the “I love Karlovy Vary” sign (it’s a heart instead of the word “heart”) and watching all the people who stop to have friends take their picture by the sign. Also on the way back, of course I see the Tourist Information building. Oh well, using Rick’s path, I did great without the map I had planned to get there!

A little further on, I have lunch just off the main track at Posezeni u Svejka. The Pilsen Goulash with bread and bacon dumplings is delicious, if filling. I’m not used to having so much for lunch and am unable to finish it all. I’m not a big beer drinker, but this needs beer, so I have a small glass of Pilsner Urquell. I like this beer; if I have beer again, I’ll have this.

After the walk back, with a few stops on benches just to enjoy the scene, it’s time for me to go back to the hotel, walk up all those stairs, and put my feet up for a bit.

I have a dinner reservation for Promenada in the hotel of the same name. I passed it on my excursion today, so I know right where it is. I figure it will be a bit more expensive, but nice dinners are important to me, so I have no problem having a few splurges on a trip. When looking at the menu, I’m considering ordering the rabbit. I’ve only had rabbit once, in Rome a long time ago, and it wasn’t very good. I’ve always suspected that it just wasn’t cooked well but have been reluctant to order it again. I ask the waiter whether he thinks the rabbit is good, he assures me it is and adds that everything on the menu is good. I decide to go for it. I start with Snails Bourguignon (delicious), followed by the Rabbit with Bacon/Onion/Garlic Sauce and Potatoes and Vegetables. It’s delicious! I’m not sure what they do with the spinach side dish, but it’s also delicious. I’m too full for dessert, but when he mentions Peppermint Sorbet, it sounds so good and I know it won’t be too filling. I was right! Great dinner. A nice added touch, the waiter brings me a rose! Lovely!

The next morning, I’m off to Cesky Krumlov. I had arranged with the hotel to have a taxi take me to the bus station. In the Czech Republic, often the bus is not only quicker but also cheaper than the train. I allowed time to walk to the ramp, walk up the long ramp, over the river, down the ramp on the other side. The hotel clerk had given me the name of the taxi company and the number of the taxi, and I was very happy that they were there right on time. Once again, there was a change in Prague (probably not right in Prague). Time to go in and find out what platform I needed, go to the restroom and grab a chicken wrap for some lunch. Burger King was the only choice. I think they must have a contract with the Czech Republic, they were in all the bus/train stations.

Here's when we have the next fiasco. I get off the bus in Cesky Krumlov. There are no taxis. However, there is a big sign giving the phone number to call one. Here’s the problem…my phone is not working. The Kindness of Strangers kicks in when a very nice man offers to call them for me. Wonderful! Or so I think…I wait and wait and wait and there is no taxi. When talking to another young man, he says that taxis are not allowed to come in here and have to come to the parking lot up (way up) behind the station. He points to a steep, curved walkway that will take me up there. Oh, great! If a taxi had come, they would be long gone by now. So I go up to the parking lot. This all seems a little strange. Anyway, after talking to a few people who don’t speak much English (including a woman who drives in with a taxi but refuses to take me anywhere!), I finally get a young woman who speaks some English but isn’t exactly sure what I need. Fortunately, her mother is coming to pick her up and she speaks better English and agrees to call a taxi for me (the Kindness of Strangers again). I ask her to please tell them exactly where I am, and she nods her head. This is over an hour after I got off the bus. She does so and a taxi comes in less that five minutes. Thank heavens!

I can’t be surprised at all this, it’s just the way the trip is going. Just move on! (On this trip, I keep telling myself this!)

Ingo

Thank God for the kindness of strangers! All in all everything worked out in the end, at least so far.

I enjoyed Karlovy Vary very much, too. A classic spa town, just right for slow pace, strolling and recovering.